We made it

I set off north for the last time, stopping for supplies on the way.  I had hoped for a hot lunch on the way but managed to miss the hotel, perhaps it has closed.
I couldn't miss the replica Viking long boat which apparently set sail for Newfoundland in 2000 but only got this far, amazing to think they original Viking made in theirs and modern versions still cannot.
I stopped for a rest at Bobby's bus shelter, this was removed by the council mysteriously one day and replaced at the request of Bobby, who made it his own.  It is still looked after by his mum, Bobby is working away now, and has various themes to reflect his and island life
Eleanor enjoyed learning to knit with her new friends.
The to Herman Ness and the most northerly point of my journey.
We were blessed with sunshine and the birds were there in plenty.  You new the colonies of gannets were close as you can smell them before  seeing them and there is the constant noise of squabbling for space.
I also got really close to the  puffins.  The really are the funniest of birds, quite unconcerned by my presence.  They are pairing up and like old married hobbits bustling themselves around their burrows.
And finally to the end.  Muckle Flugga, with the lighthouse is longer occupied so this was it.
We celebrated with the whisky, although we soon moved in from to edge, just in case.
I settled down to wait for the sunset it was a privilege I often deny myself to take the time to watch the birds feeding, the gannets are so graceful wheeling around and diving, the skuas trying to pinch the catch of the kittiewakes, the little awks babbling in the waves and of course the puffins who flutter about right over my head. Also the sea crashing over and against the rocks and the everchanging colours with the light.
However after 8 hours of buffetting by the wing wrapped on my bin liner and poncho over virtually every piece clothingin my bag,  I had to give up at around 10pm as I was so cold and the sea mist came in so it was obvious there wouldn't be any sort of sunset.
It was a tough push up the cliffs to get back to the path but Eleanor managed it again and I was glad to have her with me to the end.
When we got back to the path I saw a couple approaching wondering where the top was to watch the sun go down also if anyone else was there. I was surprised that there doesn't seem to be any real celebration up here.
I was glad to have decided to go back as the cloud got thicker and the drizzle heavier. I can attest that although I did have my lights and high vis jacket on, it still light until 1am, I just thought other road users should see me in the mist, there were none.
I headed back south, I looked into the bus shelter but decided I may as well get back to the hostel for 4 hours warm sleep before heading for the 7o'clock ferry to negotiate getting Eleanor onto the bus to Lerwick, she is such a cutie she squeezed in beautifully so we got back to book onto the overnight ferry to Aberdeen.  Once I had turned around I felt I should just keep going otherwise the temptation to stay might be overwhelming, that and apparently the weather is going to deteriorate.

The last ferry to Unst

The wind is still in the north but should be turning soon, just in time for my journey south.
I was warned by a chap in the Shetland gallery, where I was inspired by some map textiles to get food in cullivoe before I got to the ferry, also to say hello to fortnum and mason, his two shetland ponies on the way.  I think this rather raised my hopes for tasty supplies which were sorely disappointed when I couldn't even get any porridge for breakfast, hey ho another two night of tuna pasta and breakfast and lunch of ryvita and dairylea, it was as much as I could carry, when I turned into the wind to get the three miles back to the ferry, as much as I could push.
I met another couple of cyclists, one doing ncn1 going back via Bergen to Calias. And the other an icelander visiting old norse sites.  I visited the old Viking long houses which are being washed into the sea.
I arrived at the hostel just before the rain and spent a very pleasant afternoon, drinking tea and whiskey watching the weather and the beautiful view of Uyeasound from inside a sun room looking over the bay.
I have decided to spend another day here, as long as the food lasts, before setting off to the northerly tip to watch the sun set and rise on the shortest night.  I shall equip myself with a bin bag, my plastic poncho and all the clothes I have to wild camp again with the whisky to keep me warm.

With in Yelling distance

I cycled back over the bridge onto mainland Shetland and headed back north, into the wind again.  It died down for a while and I was cycling along to the accompanment of skylarks when I turn a corner to be assailed by the sight, sound and smell of Sullam Voe oil terminal.  Complete with airfield, helicopters buzzing about , flare stacks and road sleepers creating more dust than they appeared to be clearing. Strangest of all was that on the other side of the road there were stacks of cut peat, drying for I assume, winter fuel.
This is a land of contrasts.  There is no doubt the oil industry brings in a lot of funds, I haven't seen much evidence of pollution and the local population is able to retain a sense of community and tradition.  No one locks their door out of lerwick, although there may be a few more urban issues there, nothing compared even with intellectually refined Cambridge.
I came down the hill and could see the ferry to Yell, but had to stop to get a picture of these little fellas.
Much more cycle friendly ferrymen here, I was allowed on first and when I tried to pay before I got off I was asked if I really wanted to, it seems he had put his ticket machine away!
I expected to find a shop to get some thing for lunch but manager to miss the one by the ferry.  I had had a phone call from my next b&b lady to say they had to go to Lerwick and would not be back until 7, when she would prepare a meal.  She described which was my room so I could go in, no locks on the doors again.
I found the village but no signal to find the house, I asked around and got directions via another beach.  I stopped there to ransack the last of my supplies for lunch and the next shop was 7 miles away.
What an amazing beach, it had strips of golden, silver and pink sand.  I spent another pleasant afternoon snoozing and watching the graceful acrobatics of the arctic terns, seal and cormorants.

Muckling about

I have ranged to get a couple of b&bs organized for my trip up to the northern isles, although not easy to find somewhere to eat, so the first one allowed me to take a micro wave meal with me, particularly as she was off to church.  I made pretty good time and found a country house hotel so stopped for a wick coffee and cake, which turned out to be really sticky ridge pudding and then the sun came out.
I got to Muckle Row in plenty of time, and saw a sign to the beach, so it was good to get my toes in the water and get a bit of a clamber over the rocks to the light house.  I was a bit surprised to see that it was solar powered, apparently it had only failed to light once during a winter.

Onwards and upwards

A rainy day in Lerwick turned out to be quite busy. Basic chores of clothes washing and planning next steps can take some time.
I popped into a textile museum and was amazed at the fine knitted lace, it could take upto a year to complete one shawl, which like a pashmina should pass through a gold ring.  On my way back into town I saw a bike event go by and tried to join but lost them by the time I turned around.  I carried on with my original plan to go to the Shetland museum it was great and free and out of the rain, recently completed I think, it seems the oil money is finding its way into the community. 
Whilst there I found out that there would be a fun bike ride along the up helly aa route and the Peatbog Fearies playing in the new Maveel centre.
The warm up act had cancelled in the afternoon, so there was a stand-in scratch band of around 12 young fiddles, accordian and keyboard. The reels were so fast and powerful from the audience reaction they were all local.  The ferries were also loud and fast and soon had everyone jigging.

Shetland

After a wonderful local fish and beer stop at Helgi's in Kirkwall I headed off for the overnight ferry to Shetland. Luckily I had allowed enough time, ie refused the final beer, to find the right pier which was further out of town than I expected or was it just the beer legs and the head wind.
I don't think they wanted us cyclists to leave and kept us waiting on the pier in the freezing wind for over half an hour, at least I saw it get almost dark.
I hadn't booked a berth or seat but managed a few hours sleep in the bar along with a number of motorbikers on their way to to a simmer dim get together.
It was drizzly on arrival but cleared after breakfast.
I managed to visit my first broch, iron age settlement, amazingly well preserved and battled my way around the headland, Orkney was a breeze compared to this.  I was just popping into Tesco for supplies when I looked over to the bay to see more than a dozen seals basking on the rocks, now why doesn't the royston branch have such diverting attractions?
It seems that accommodation is scarce here due to the influx of oil workers. So I shall probably not stay to 21st as hoped but will still aim to get to the top any way.
I asked at the hostel about music gigs given it was Friday night, to be told, oh no Friday and Saturday nights are for getting drunk, no one worries about music.
I went with Eleanor to enjoy the clear evening and see what was going on in town.  I saw a couple of folk carrying guitars and so followed them in to a bar and sure enough there was drinking, no one just has a pint they also have one chaser for a half or two for the full pint.  That's only the women!  I was greeted like a long lost friend along with Eleanor and enjoyed a very pleasant evening of blue grass music, again people just turned up with a guitar or a fiddle played or sang a tune on went on, not sure if they were strolling minstrals going from bar to bar, however they were playing in aid of Rnli.  The man who was loosely organising it looked well into his 80s and moved like it, except when he played when he was as sprightly as the youngsters there. I eventually left, again in the almost dark, with no lights to meet a couple of policemen, the first I've seen in a while, so I duly got off and pushed, it was a steep hill anyway.  I am guessing it was going to get a bit more raucous before the night was done.

Quick hop to Papay

And so it was time to move on to Papa Westray, the inter island flights are heavily subsidised so I decided to abandon Eleanor cosily tucked up in the hostel boiler room, and fly there for $21.  The morning dawned foggy but every one assured my we would still fly so I ended up paying for a taxi to the airport as the half homely bus service is suspended in the middle of the day just as the planes leave. Only to drive and have to wait 4 hours for the said fog to clear.
But we did fly in a tiny 8 seated, which the pilot appeared to steer  around the runway like a car and fly similarly. The cloud lifted so we could see all the island below us, but unfortunately closed in soon after arrival and so I didn't get ro see so much on my short stay.
However I did manage the knap of however which at 4000BC is the oldest,standing dwelling; amazing stone work.
Also managed to get onto the bird reserve to see the the very rare primula Scotia it is absolutely tiny and very beautiful, luckily the hostel manager told me where to find it.
The reserved is remote and the birds almost tame, they certainly didn't mind me watching as they mobbed marauding skuas. I did manage to find the past auk!  The seals are also very curious and followed me along the coast back to the airport.
The flight back was on time but included the shortest schedule flight on the world from papa to westray, all of 90 seconds.  Apparently I should have asked for a certificate to mark the occasion.
And so for the over night ferry to Shetland it was good to be reunited with Eleanor again.

Proud Mummy

Big well done to my magnificent daughters.  To Ruth on her new job and to Helen on getting a first in her Psychology degree. 
I should go away more often if this is the result
Well done and congratulations to both of you :)

Back to mainland, Orkney that is

Mainland here does not mean Scotland that is just referred to as "south".
I cycled to the south of Hoy to take the ferry from Lyness, where there is the Scapa flow wwll museum which wouldnt normally interest me but it was out of the wind with a coffee shop with some of the wickedest tray bakes I have come across, base of dark chocolate with biscuit, orange aero pieces and dried fruit topped with white chocolate, no rationing here.  The museum its self although cluttered with armaments and big mechanical stuff also included lots of exhibits on the effect on the local people and visiting service personnel often in their own words and personal possessions.  The films of both the war and lasting effect on the environment were also well done.
The ferry stopped at the oil terminal island of Flotta and it was curious to see the juxtapositioning of oil, wind and wave energy technology particular in conjunction with what was put in place to protect and supply the navy and airforce in the flow during wartime.
I spent the rest of my time on mainland collecting my whisky, visiting craft workshops and going to the local live music gig again. This time is was a ticket event but I thought it would be ok to turn up at the door given the previous week's experience, but as this was billed as a concert it appeared to be a sellout, as one young local passerby commented to his mum "tickets is everything".  I thought there was going to be a riot when we non ticket holders couldn't form an orderly queue.  But they managed to squeeze us all in and the music began.  Much the same as the previous week, very traditional accordian and fiddle but at least with some introduction of the tunes, then followed at 16 y/o singer/guitarist/songwriter, then a group of 3 young lads taking a much edgier version of the fiddle accordian style, then a folk singer and finally a really good fiddle player and her boyfriend on backing guitar, she plays traditional tunes as well as composing her own on one in particular about wanting to climb a munro near lochinvar was particularly haunting. She has played womad and is the local fiddle teacher, all the performers were Orkadian it is good to hear all the generations continuing the musical traditions.

Off to Hoy

A bit of an early start as there are only two ferries on a Saturday and although I know it leaves at 9.30 I am not sure where from.  I and several others nearly ended up on the ro ro back to Scrabster. My route finding skills have not improved as much as I had hoped.
I had booked a hostel bed via the council, why didn't HDC do this, close to the old man but had to collect the key from the second house in the right from the pier, luckily every one knows everyone as I eventually located it and 6 miles across the island, the hostel, which for all it's remoteness has this weeks grazia and cosmopolitan as the only reading matter, so let me tell you about 25 years of  Kate Moss..... It seems the whole of Kate Rastwick is a museum, many of the old building, crafts etc have been preserved and are furnished with various artifacts and open to visitors.

The walk over the the old man was  beautiful, so many amazing flowers, orchids, lilies, grasses and birds, both heath and coastal which were unpurterbed by human visitors.  The great skuas were even chilled, I had been 'buzzed' by a couple  yesterday, at least I had my cycle helmet on and I just kept peddling furiously until they lost interest.
The old man was as spectacular as expected enhanced by the fact that there were a couple of people climbing it, quite quickly considering, they were done and gone within 2 hours, by the time I got back from St Johns head which isobe of the highest vertical sea cliff at 348m.
Then back to Hoy hostel, which doubles as a community hall and schools outdoor centre, Rastwick was a little too remote. The old church has been converted into a local archive and reading room with RSPB room too, complete with help your self tea and coffee just right for a rather dull cold morning. Then on to a lazy Sunday reading on the beach, the sun has returned, quite pleasant out of the wind.
It was very relaxing watching the tide come in with the birds and other fauna.

Neolithic, so not feeling so old now

Orkney was quite a buzzing place in its day, perhaps thats why the music doesn't die, it may have survived 5000 years.
The are a wealth of well preserved prehistoric sites and I set off to see some of them.  The ring of Brogar is third only in size to Stonehenge, and the other one everyone forgets.  The Stones of Stenness are some of the tallest, the burial chamber of Meashows and village of Scara Brea, the oldest and best preserved sites in Europe and have world heritage status and apart from the last two are all free to wander around, none of this viewing area nonsense as the afore mentioned Stonehenge.  As part of the Scara Brea ticket you also get to wander around the old laird's family house on who's land Scara was uncovered in a storm and who oversaw the initial excavations.  It had a very 1950's feel, very reminiscent of the Gables.  There is a big dig on another recently discovered village near Brogar so I am getting in the mood for our Meldreth dig.
The next highlight of my trip was of course the Orkney brewery. Starting of with a beer infused sausage and mash to line the stomach.
I managed the trading platter although avoided the skull splitter at 8.5%.  They are now producing a 15% special reserve which is sold in a resealable bottle so can be drunk like port. It was worth the trip to malady taste some straight from the cask instead of the bottles which was all I had managed through my trip, most of the pub o have been in have been too quiet to be able to have any draught bitter.

On to Orkney

I was a little sad to leave the Highlands, but glad I wasn't quite finished.
The waters of the Pentland Firth have very strange currents so I wasn't looking forward to he crossing bit there was the possibility of a little whale watching.
There were some seals playing as we left but then we moved in the the sea mists again so all other wildlife spotting and enjoying the views of the cliffs were abandoned, luckily there will be several more ferries before I reach my final destination.
The temperature really drops in the mist. So I was very glad of the fleece I bought at jog.
I felt really tired by the time I got to St Margaret Hope and so piped to the pub for a wee bite before an early night, a wee crab baguette turned out to be a huge peaceful including chips and salad. You can't go hungry here
The next morning I was up and away spurred on by the anticipated distillery tour. First the small matter of crossing four if the smaller islands of South Ronaldsey, Burray,Glimps Holm and Lamb Holm, using Churchill's Barriers which were constructed in wwll to keep the enemy u boats out of Scapa Flow. The is a beautiful little chapel created by the Italian pows who were there to build the barriers
The is also a winery next door which makes wines from fruit and flowers.  A little early for tasting but I did any anyway just to practise for the distillery.
I eventually arrived just before 12 to be told I would have to wait until one, what to do as I didn't want to down the hill into town just to come back up also it might be sensible to eat something first, so to the linked hotel where I had an amazing local  fish platter with local bread, coffee and homemade shortbread all for less than 8 quid.
On to the tour, Highland Park has won the best spirit in the world award twice in recent times,  they had bottle for more the 2000 pounds for sale, so I decided to go for the special tasting your.
The tour itself was interesting that they still use old-fashioned methods, hand turning of the malt etc and all the various smell as you walk through the rooms, you could actually taste in the end product.  I did manage to distinguish between the 12, 15 and 18 year olds but sadly it will have to be the 12 y/o that I will take to for my longest day vigil, even more distressing it will have to be a whole bottle as they don't do halves!
And on to the local music evening, not quite what I expected, it is a group trying to keep the old tunes alive, there may be a reason why they died......, I love the lady at the back knitting her socks, obviously more life there.
Sorry about lack of photos I seem to have forgotten to use my phone camera.

I have joged

Well I couldn't delay any longer even after the few bevies in the pub I had to go.
I fairly easy 20 miles plus side trips to Dunnet head and Duncansby head with a quick call in to Gills to check the ferry times. As usual I was into the wind but the sun was shining however there was an ever moving sea mist which rather obscured the photos. The 360 deg panorama from Dunnet head was again spectacular and the run in to jog was very rurally pleasant.  The end itself was rather better the lands end and there were lots of people to say well done, including some other cyclists I had met on the way.
I had a little memento don't for the occasion, so Helen, you don't have to!
I decided to forego the celebratory wee dram as I am not the best sailor and opted instead for a cream scone.
Then it was off to the most northwesterly point of Duncansby Head.
Now this has been a month of magical moments but this almost,beats them all.  Again the sea mist obscured the views out to Orkney but increased the appreciation of the birds and wild flowers.  The sound and smell of the breeding colonies of kittiwakes, fulnars, cuillins and razorbilld was almost overpowering, particularly given the drop over the cliff.
I am so glad this isn't the end of my trip but if it was then it would be a fitting highlight.

Tongue to Thurso

I think I am slowing down as I don't really want to get to the end, anyway I decided to get over 40 miles on the clock.  Interestingly, well to me anyway, my bum still hurts so I shall have to get a new saddle when I get back.  If I haven't got used to it by now, it is not going to happen.
The cycling is a number gentle inclines now although when I have to give way to traffic on the uphill I still have to get off and push.
The Sutherland hills have given way to the flows, upland bogs, and as you can see I am still heading off into the unknown.
I got my first glimpse of Orkney when I stopped for lunch by the Marie Cure remembrance field, one for you Roz, I hope all went well with your challenge.
I am not sure that I have uploaded the link to your giving page as it probably got lost in amongst my earlier technical difficulties, but if anyone wants to contribute let me know and I will try to email the link or forward to Roz.
The juxtapositioning of Dounray power station with wind turbines was odd but I guess given the Chaucer the planners have little argument against the turbines here!
I hoped Thurso would have an outdoor clothing shop to stock up on some extra layers for the island, but it is just another depressed town, full of closing down and charity shops. Oh and chip shops purveying the local delicacies of deep fried haggis and mars bars.
In fact I discovered my hostel was located above one of these outlets.
Although I itially unpreposessing it turned out to be remarkable cosy and well appointed. I met up with a number of other cyclists who were variously starting and finishing and so a few bevies and travel tales were swapped.

Dawdling from Durness

I have really slowed down to enjoy this most northerly of coasts, so an easy ride to Tongue found me exploring Smoo cave which has evidence of human occupation from 5000 years ago.  The chap who ran the shortest boat guided tour ever didn't charge me as I had my own hard hat.
Then around Loch Eriboll, against the wind I came upon the studio of ceramics and sculpturer of Lotte Glob.  I am sure I have seen her work else where, she creates many pieces which she leaves in the landscape on her walks to the hills.  Some one picked up a ball thinking it was evidence of earlier visitors, and took it for further investigation to the museum.  She also has a super hot kiln in which she fuses her ceramics with various rocks, amazing stuff.
And finally across the Kyle of Tongue which is a man made causeway, I tried to find some otters but failed.

Cape Wrath

Another short day in prospect to Durness.  The wind was behind me again and so it felt like I was flying through the Sutherland hills, so much so I arrived at the ferry turning by 12 o clock, the weather looked good so I decided to catch the next ferry.  I had been warned that the road was not good enough for road bikes so I reluctantly left Eleanor tucked behind a wall.  Some one on the boat informed me that a friend had 15 punctures when she cycle it so a good decision to take the minibus.
Unfortunately the weather drew in as we arrived and as you only get an hour before the bus returns I rushed around trying to get photos in the rain. Of course the weather completely changed just before we left so I had rush around again, narrowly avoiding the 300ft cliff drop.