As previously promised an update of my return.
Reading David Byrne's, of Talking Heads, bicycle diaries thank you Chris for this, has inspired me to continue the blog; of course all the kind encouragement of you intrepid readers had no effect!
Scotrail have reopenned their $19 return to anywhere, so as I was in the area how could I resist?
As generous as it is they have not made it any easier to take a trusty steed.
I spent a morning trying to book a ticket to Kyle of Lochalshe which requires 3 trains, including more than half an hour with national rail enquiries searching their considerable data base to give me the number I had called them on!
No joy so set off to penrith station to try in person, still no joy bought a ticket and booked Eleanor on next train to carlisle to try there, managed to book Eleanor on to 2 of the trains but not the middle one! Oh well worth the risk I thought, I can remove her wheels and take as hand luggage if necessary. An added bonus was seeing the start on the second stage of tour of Britain and getting close and personal with Mark Cavendish, enjoy the lovely bum picture
On to Edinburgh to blag Eleanor on to the train, I still tried to book at the ticket office still no joy, it seems that this part of the journey is not bookable, it is a first past the post system, please note Scotrail and national rail enquiries
13 hours later I arrived at Stromeferry where the station masters house has been converted into a very welcoming hostel.
Poor Eleanor was relegated to a night with the hooly, whilst I was warm and dry inside. Unfortunately, the train was late into Inverness and I was unable to get supplies, so I tucked into a porridge supper, what else in Scotland.
However I was somewhat surprised that my fellow bikers (motorized variety) took up the whole fireplace to dry their kit, then opened the door to the elements to clear the air of the,smoke from frying incredible mountains of protein, swilled down with much beer and post prandial bottles of whisky and only managed to offer me a place at the table to watch! This was repeated at breakfast. I didnt really want anything but to carry on a conversation and not to make any sort of offer was the most rude experience I have had in a hostel, I won't mention the nationality as I know it is not universal.
The morning dawned wet but promised better, once the road outside had ceased to run like a river I decided to make a move.Eleanor had survived her night of wild camping but her computer had not.
A pleasant ride to Lochcarron, which has a great crafts vibe, lots of handy tips whilst drying out infront of the heater. My first fabulously fresh kipper to see me up my first pass, that of cows, which is apparently the highest in the UK at over 2500 ft. I will admit it took me 2 hours to get there so obviously I have lost what ever residual lejog fitness I had. I was offered a lift on two occasions which I womanfully decline only to immediately regret as the next shower blew in, however I did see some magnificent stags and views towards the red and black cuillins.
It was a short sharp and freezing descent into Applecross
After a warm welcome at the newly established hostel and,fulsome recommendation of a local restaurant, closer than the pub, The Walled Garden, which I cannot recommend highly enough, a magical setting for good local food, venison, seafood etc. Beautifully cooked, presented and served at a really reasonable price. I found this on my last trip, Scotland's cuisine is as good as its scenery, not cheap but fantastic value for money.
A magical return cycle by the full moon, a contrast to my previous trip when it never really got dark.
