Miri to Kuching and Beyond

I decided to go for the overland trip which was an nine hour bus trip to Sibu on the mighty Batang Rejang and then an express boat to Kuching. The first part was a a useful day of reflection, catching up on sleep; the Miri Minda guest house is blessed by a mosque with enthusiastic call to prayer behind and karaoke club to the front, so not much sleep there. The second part was quite exhilerating to start with, amazing to see the legendary 'coffin' boats going up river and I was glad to be going down stream.  

Sibu is also famous for its sweetest pinapples and the fish market is pretty impressive.

Kuchin is the capital of Sarawak, with many colonial buildings and museums. I arrived late on Saturday afternoon when most had closed and so could get much information on my next trips. I did notice a cultural concert in the evening but there was an almighty cloud burst as it was about to start.

I had a hair raising experince in the Sarawak museum which has an exhibition of traditional dwelling of many of the tribes. I was walking through one when I felt something tickle my head (I am reletively tall here) and looked up to be greeted by many heads hung in a mobile with straw. I caused much amusement to other visitors with my reaction. I knew that they had some relics of headhunting days but didn't expect such a close encounter.

I decided to go to the Gunung Gading national Park anyway on the offchance that there would be a carniverous Raffelasia in bloom. I cought a local bus and met up with some others who had heard that there was, so exciting.

We got there and our guide took us towards the bloom site but we knew we were close by the strong smell of rotting flesh. It was magnificent, about 60cm across. They only bloom after a 6 month budding process and then only for 4 to 5 days. I was really pleased to find one. 

 I had hoped to stay overnight but there was no food on site so I had to make do with a quick trail up to the waterfalls. 

 I had a swim at the top one, I had taken my bikini but as I was the only one around and the rest of my clothes were already wet from the climb I didn't bother. There were many amazing butterflies and I saw a giant squirrel on the way down. 

 I also smelt another Raffelasia but couldn't see it, I didn't venture too far from the trail, I mentioned it to the ranger at the bottom and he thought that there was one up there and it was likely to be much bigger as the growing conditions are better higher up.

As I couldn't stay at the park I decided to go to almost the furthest tip of Sarawak at Sematan.  A fabulous beach which I had amost to myself, apart from the odd army battalion going through their parade duties. I took me a while to find the right spot, there are crocodiles in the estuaries.

 But someone took me on the back of his bike and offered to come back for me. I wandered back into town for dinner and was invited to join the local english teacher and is friends. I was a bit dubious as they had all been drinking since my arrival but couldn't refuse.  They offered me beer and fabulous steamed river crab, steamed fish and then great sex! I refused the latter, made a hasty retreat to my not so salubrious hotel. Not sure if this accommodation was reflected in my previous invitation!

It took a little while to negotiate a lift to the nearest bus stop but sure enough someone eventually turned up, he drove like the wind, There were four of us in a very small car, I noticed he had a go faster steering wheel, and it certainly wasn't a standard engine, he managed to chase the bus and it stopped for me, I might add he was at least 60 even accounting for the anti-aging lifestyle here!