A day on the beach

It was with great distress I found that both Durness hostels were full on Friday night which necessited me delaying my departure from here by a day, particularly as although it dawned misty, it soon cleared into another cloudless blue sky.  So just time to nip back into Lochinver for supplies including a visit to the famous pie shop which I had missed on my way in yesterday. Before heading for my own personal, well almost, clear blue water and white sand beach.  Although too cold for me to swim I watched seals playing and terns fishing before reading a news paper cover to cover, my first in a month and settling for some serious sunbathing.
Returning to the hostel, I met up with another cyclist from Inverness who assumed I was on my way back from jog, they had already been to Dunnet head and back.
And then into the pies.  The shop is justifiably famous, I had been told about it by every cyclist who had passed through Lochinver and any one.  I had a venison and cranberry followed by chocolate pear and almond, in one sitting, amazing how a day of doing nothing can do for your appetite.

The Assynt

I decided to fill in some time by taking the coast route.
Another sunny morning and I was very quickly feeling the heat.  I decided to head for Achnahaird beach.  Although there were good few climbs I managed to pedal them and the views when I got there were amazing in the truest sense of the word, just range upon range of big lumps of volcanic rock.
The water in the loch was the deepest of blue and the sea azure, it was a blue almost cloudless sky with enough breeze to keep the midgets at bay. There is no way my phone photos can do it justice.  I have ended the day at Achmelvich beach hostel which promises some of the best sunsets, and with 40 miles onthe clock it can't be a more perfect cycling day.
Except to add that I am having a celebratory wee dram as I have passed 500miles on the odometer and assuming it was at least 500 miles to Penrith, I have passed the 1000 mile mark, cheers.

Undemanding Ullapool

Another fine, if not quite sunny morning and the lady at the bunkhouse commented that winter was definitely over.  Although she wouldn't be drawn on whether spring has sprung.
It is a fine bunkhouse literally in the middle of nowhere, 45 minutes into Inverness if you forget the milk! But a great base for bagging munroes.
I have really slowed down the pace to enjoy the highlands and made many stops along the way including lael arboretum, a walk around the tree world.
This was about midway down a 5 mile downhill, I don't recall the uphill being that bad yesterday so I must be getting fitter.
It seemed to be downhill virtually all the way and so I have done another coast to coast of at least two on this trip.
I am sitting typing this whilst waiting for the sunset over the western isles,  I am not sure what time it will be, it is 8.30 and still has a way to go, but it is warm here on the shore.  I am also accompanied by a seal also out to enjoy the evening sun, or more likely the fish on the incoming tide.
I also enjoyed a local fish pie and my first Scottish strawberries of the season and will now take a local wee dram to round off the occasion.
It took until 10pm to get the sun set shot.

Where to?

Still undecided but speaking to my room mate I have decided to head out west again, forsaking Barbaraville, which will require a new map as I didn't bring the relevant pages, so have booked a bunkhouse at the edge of my current map and will make a decision whether or not to go to Ullapool and possibly Lewis or head around the coast to Cape Wrath, very lumpy but hopefully worth while.
The day set off dry, contrary to prediction and I managed to get the relevant pages from a cheap road map from The Works. The lady behind the counter was a little surprised at my ripping up my new purchase.
It didn't really help me crossing the Kessock bridge which due to road works ensured I circled the football stadium at least twice before getting onto the cycle path and then I ended up under the bridge on the other side in helmet and hi vis, I think they thought I had come to help with the repairs!
I eventually found the coast road to see the porpoise jumping, not sure you will see them in the photo.
The journey continued as a wild life adventure as I was buzzed by a red kite which was inturn buzzed by a couple of crows and then saw a strange red rumped bird fly across my path.
A visit to the Glen Ord distillery proved less exciting as they had miniature of other whiskies but not their own, so that one is off my list.
The best value coffee and homemade cake, $2.35 and delicious, is to be had at the Tarvie Services on A835 tell your friends.
I am not sure I should blog the next bit but mothers and daughters be assured I am ok.
I had my first spill of the trip, in fact for as long as I can remember, I was entirely my own fault I was crossing a level crossing, but looking at the war memorial up the hill, so missed the sign warning cyclists to dismount, there was a rubber surface which was like ice, in the wet but at least soft when I fell, this is why we wear helmets, boys and girls!
I eventually found my way to another independent hostel at the bottom if a dam in the middle of nowhere, I guess it must have been built for the dam workers, glad its still here for the Monroe baggers.

Inverness

Another glorious day, three in a row, is this a record for this year?
Not sure if I saw Nessie's trail into the bottom of the loch, you never know!
The climb out of Fort Augustus was quite steep, I discovered that my 'granny' gear (my feet) is as fast as the lowest gear on a mountain, bike as I overtook some younger cyclists who had steam ahead of me at the bottom!
It was worth it for the views across the moor and the lochs. 
I have decided to try harder with my photography to do better justice to this scenery, magnificent is not a big enough word for it.  So I will try to get a mini tripod for when I get to the islands.
Another sublime lunch stop overlooking the loch, Nessie didn't make an appearance, she obviously didn't fancy my crisp bread and dairylea butties which are my current favourite, along with another at the head of the loch to give Eleanor a little tlc after yesterday exertions.  Here I did see Nessie, many of them in all sizes, colours and textures, not one of them could swim.
Into Inverness, amazing shopping centre but alas no mini tripod.
The hostel was full of cyclists, eight of which had started from john o groats in the morning and intended to get to lands end in 7 days, with full back up of course, but what a contrast with my 60 days!
I also realised I have a little time to fill before I get to jo'g so it was useful to talk to others about where to go next.  I had intended to go to Regard where the hostel is in 1st class railway carriages, appropriately named sleeperzz. Via a little place called Barbaraville, which apart from the name has little to recommend it apart from a retirement village, I thought I should check out for you Gail.

Back on track

Another gorgeous morning, the Nevis range looked sublime.  There can have been few better days to climb but my experience of how the weather can change in 24 hours has shown me that I do not have the right kit to attempt it.  I may be down to bear shorts (basically my cycling undershorts if you need that detail) and shirt, I know I will need more than my three other divested layers and walking shoes if I got to the top.
So I set off back up Glen Nevis to find my way to the Great Glen.  Only a short day in prospect which was just as well as it turned out to be mostly off road, not Eleanor's natural environment but she rose to the occasion womanfully.  The great glen way follows the Caledonian canal starting with Neptune staircase, one for you Joan and Tim, I am not sure how many locks but it was hard work cycling up passed them.  I managed to get on the wrong side again but a couple of helpful chappies pointed out a tunnel I could get through to the other side, I guess it is obvious that rivers, animals etc have to cross canals but it never occurred to me that there would be tunnels.
The canal path was relatively smooth but progress was impaired by multiple stops to take photos if the magnifiscent  Nevis range.
I continued  with a slight deviation for lunch to loch arkaig and a snooze by the waterfall.
The forest trail beside loch lochy (not sure why no one claimed this one, it was as good as the rest perhaps they had run out of of names) was beautiful with the coconutty smell of gorse, and fresh cut pine, lots if cuckoos calling and beaches you could dream of in the Caribbean.  The track beside loch oich really was an oich and poor Eleanor was really out of her depth,  the sight of the road kill was almost too much.  I have no idea how this no eye deer met its end, there were no signs of injury apart from lack of eyes which I assume was due to the crows. Maybe it just blindly fell off the cliff. At least we wouldn't starve if we couldn't make it back on track, any recipe ideas Hugh?
I finally arrive at my first independent hostel and it really is very civilised with a double bed and ensuite all for $21
It was great to have the time to enjoy the scenery. Have a siesta in the sun and enjoy some very slow off road.  I think 40 miles per day is my ideal.

Hello Summer

It is unbelievable how much difference a day makes.  I  could stand out on deck on the ferry back to Mallaig, see the hills, managed a siesta on the beach near Arisaig and the mountains of Glen Nevis were absolutely clear fantastic for a number of three peakers starting their challenge; I hope they are as lucky with Sca fell and Snowdon. The return train ride back to Fort William was stunning, with the mirror like reflections if the mountains in the lochs. 
I manage to divest myself of three layers of clothing from yesterday, much to the consternation of the hostel receptionist as I unzipped my cycle jersey forgetting that all I had on underneath was, luckily, a sports bra! He was last seen taking a swift wee dram to get over the shock. It, the temperature not my divestment,  has also brought out the midges hey ho, time to find the skin so soft.

Bye bye Skye

What a difference a day makes I woke to light cloudy sky and little wind, the ferry is running so I set off on my return leg of my sojourn on Skye.  There was still snow on the hills which endorsed my decision to ride out the storm here but the wind was warmer and behind me for a change.  I reached the ferry to be asked why I was leaving now the summer had arrived? So it bodes well for the next leg of the lejog

Hunkering down on Skye

I was unsure weather I should be trying to get back to the mainland but the decision was made for me as the ferry to mallaig was suspended until late afternoon because of the weather.  So what to do, the manager of the hostel suggested I step outside before I decided; there was snow on the hills, it was blowing a hooley, bitterly cold and had started hailing.  So perhaps my idea of a ride out to elgon to view the cuillins was a little ambitious.  A trip to portree to the fiddle festival, she suggested, as I wasn't going to get to the talisker distillery, this seemed a perfect compromise of a wee dram and music.
Having found the bus, via the spar shop to purchase essential festival gear of blue plastic poncho, cycle waterproofs are no match for this weather. I arrived at portree tourist information to find they had little except it started at 7.30pm and my bus was leaving at 5.30pm.
So the appealing alternative of a wet walk around the bay was it.  Actually it was great if a little bracing, finishing up in a cafe for the obligatory coffee and cake, only to discover they also served talisker, perfect.

A little side trip

After my confused conversation with the conductor on  the train to Carrour who sold me my over 55 bargain ticket just as I was leaving the train I managed to blag my way on to the mallaig train even the the ticket was a day out.  I have to say the Scot rail staff are the happiest and most helpful bunch of train operators I have come across.
The journey was,as billed the prettiest. I have been on, I got a half shot of the harry potter bridge.
Unfortunately there was no room at the inn in mallaiag and so I managed to find a cosy b&b in Arising lovely coastal bike ride.
I had my own room and tv, however all I wad interested in was the weather which as predicted was appalling, 20+mph northerly winds and cold.  I also realised I needed to book beds for the holiday weekend.
So I decided on another side trip on to skye to wait out the wind.
The ferry over was pretty packed with motor bikers , apparently they try to cover as many islands as well as man for the tt
The weather was breaking as we docked but not too bad as I set off on thwarting 16 miles to Broadford but when I turned into the north for the last 8 I wasn't sure I would make it.  I saw a tandem with bay buggy tagalong but at ready they had the wind behind them.
I made to the hostel just in time to find a bed.
The weather cleared a bit in the evening and I did manage to see the hills.  The scenery is stunning.

Out into the wilds 18th May

I am now moving into uncharted territory, no friends or family to fortify me and off to meet the natives alone.
Well the day dawned grey as expected but at least dry.  I could only find space for a banana in case of emergencies, I really wanted the pudding too but the fleece has taken up all the slack in my pack, but still seems essential kit.
Scotland seems the have sussed the sustrans signage and I found my way onto route 77 and managed to stay on it, even being told the next destination, why can't it always be like this.  This part of if was stunning, following the Tay and going through forest, interesting villages and farmland. Keeping me going even in the predicted rain, yes only my second splattering of the trip, not bad in more than 2 weeks, even so my feet weren't wet and certainly not as wet as the fishermen upto their waists in the river, is this  what you do Hugh? The best days cycling so far. It is really spooky how it reminds my of the jungles I have visited, same humidity but not quite temperature, even have hanging bridges across the river and equally as wobbly.
Arrived in Pitlochry in time to bag a lower bunk, the hostel is full tonight.

Edinburgh 20th May

Clive managed to sneak another day cycling and led me on to Edinburgh, as a city it really seems to have embraced cycling, although I did see it in its best light, it was sunny and clear so the views from Braids hill were spectacular. The castle was being spruce up for the tattoo, and we even managed  a little outdoor cafe culture out aide the national gallery with the best flap jack ever.  Clive eventually had to leave me to return to the world of work but I was well on the way to the Forth crossing, even managing a short afternoon siesta by the sea on route 78.
Over the bridge, and on to perthshire on route1 well signed
And finally to Scotlandwell and another warm welcome with Graham and Helen in their new home with wonderful views.  We had a fabulous evening walk taking in ancient bog, roe deer  and the reputed well over the health giving spring, we didn't try it but the food, wine and two pudding were very rejuvanating.
It was an honor to be their first overnight guest, I am sure there will be a cavalcade soon as word of the benefits of the well spread.

Boghead and all that 16th May

This is one I wrote earlier but managed to loose into the ether, I have stopped using the evermore app which has developed a severe form of dementia, its not just me. So I will try again I hope I haven't forgotten too much.
So after braving Scotland it was wonderful warm welcome from David and June, who fed watered and cleaned me back to feeling human.  Also David managed to organise arouse to meet Clive tomorrow.
And so on towards Edinburgh it is amazing how many great quiet riadvtoutes there are and meeting Clive halfway who managed to find a great off road old rail track to newton grange.
It was great to catch up with Ben, Alanna and kayla we had a great evening if food and more pudding, I am a popular guest as it seems I warren a Midweek treat. Thank you kayla for a great walk with magnificent views of the Pentland hills, Ben for your room and hot bath and Alanna for great company and allowing me to bore you with my Africa stories.
Not least Clive for a great route.

A day in Pitlochry Sunday 19th May

On to Loch Ossian Monday 20th May

It was good to get on the road again, particularly as the sun was shining and the wind was mild.
I had to jettison the fleece in favour of a newly purchased light weight thermal in order to make space  for food, this hostel is off the grid and accessible only by train and foot, although Eleanor coped well on the track.
The road out took me passed loch rannoch so I threw a stick in for both jet and rannoch, it was surprisingly emotional, they must have been pleased to fetch them.
Then on to the train to loch ossian where the guard informed me that Scot rail have a great deal for the over 55s, $19 return to anywhere until the end of June, so I hope to get to mallaig tomorrow on the most picturesque rail trip, I may even pop over to skye whilst I'm there.
The hostel is self sufficient in energy via wind turbine and solar and the loos at least have doors. It has a cosy woodburning stove too.
Unbelievably is has vodaphone connection

Technical difficulties

Resulting in disordering of the entries, hopefully will be resolved soon any way here are some Kate ones

Scotland the brave

Scotland the brave

Back on the road again. Bunk with a view.

Halfways stop over

Haughty Haworth

In royal company

Atishoo at Tissington

Family catch ups

Bristol and beyond

Gorgeous cheddar

Hello devon

Dartmoormoor did not disappoint.

A slow day

First proper days cycling/are we in a war zone?