School Holidays

I decided to try to climb Mt Kinabalu even though I hadn't booked accommodation and it was school holidays.

 So I was disappointed that all mountain beds were taken and although permits for a one day climb was available I didn't think I needed the pain of raising through 4100m in 24 hours. So I hired a guide to see how far I could get. Wow was I glad I didn't try for the top, they don't go for contouring here it is just straight up and up and up.

I did manage a view of the top before 8am but them the cloud was down and so I knew I wouldn't miss the view, which are apparently amazing on a clear day all the way to Kota Kinabalu and beyond.

And then the heavens opened, this is supposed to be the driest part of Sabah and I hadn't expected it and ended up crouched over my camera and phone etc, I thought it would pass but was eventually rescued by some passing British Council teachers, thank goodness for the school holidays, but my camera didn't survive, even in in its 'waterproof' case,

     I think it would have needed a diving pouch in that down pour. I can still take pictures but  the screen is dead so it is very interesting to see what I have taken on my computer.  So watch out for some interesting shots

 

 I also managed to experience the change in vegetation and see some orchids and the pitcher plants.

My knees were very grateful I didn't do the whole trip.

I had then planned to go to Kudat towards the tip of Borneo and then fall off the edge to Banggi Island. Public transport is not so easy here, and away from the main routes you are dependant on shared taxis in which you can wait all day to fill or pay for the empty seats to get going.

I didn't managed to get much further than Kota Belud and then get a taxi and boat to a beach to chill for a night or actually two as it was called Manana as it is so difficult to leave.

 

 

 

I again tried to get to Kudat and failed to find transport until I fell into an unofficial taxi only to be unable to contact any accommodation on Banggi so I found a fabulous longhouse retreat close to the actual Tip of Borneo, run by an expat brit. 

   I chose my room carefully

 A really chilled spot, great beach walks, some surfing and snorkelling although the sea was a bit rough for me and I ended up sick again!

I hired a bike for the day to explore the beaches and had fun making sandcastles with the locals, here is mount Kinabalu

There was also a trail through the mangroves which always feel spooky

Sandakan Weekend

Plantation life is both stimulating and peaceful but it is good to get into town for the weekend for a little retail r & r, a beer looking over the bay and necessities of finding the bank etc.

The sun has started to shine at long last so I thought it would be good to find a beach for a swim. Sandakan town doesn't have any beaches so I managed to get to Berhala island in the bay by local ferry, but was I disappointed that water was too dirty for swimming I had been warned. The bay seems to attract all the plastic from all the coastal settlements. 

On landing I headed off along the coast to find my beach idyll but was followed by the local youth hassling for money, food etc. they tried to annoy me singing loudly to hip-hop on their phones so I joined in and they soon stopped, I knew my unique singing ability has some purpose. They eventually left me in peace on my tropical island breach shaded by a mangrove, sitting on a liberated lorry mud flap, almost idyllic except for the rubbish.

 Although the sun shone, and I got burnt again, the water was not inviting so I strolled inland hoping to get closer to the cliffs following goat trials, passing very rudimentary shelters, I didn't like to photograph as people were sleeping away the heat of the day in them, which I guess is their purpose rather than a full time dwelling, located by cultivated patches. I eventually ran out of goat trail and unusually for me sensibly turned back, I had already been warned by the 'youts' that there were jumping animals which bite, I assumed monkeys, but I am more afraid of snakes. I haven't seen any yet but others have. I returned to the village to be greeted as an old friend, or possibly relief that I handy completely lost myself, and to find a ferry back with out the 2 hour wait I had to get there.

The sea food here is amazing I was taken out for a fabulous dinner with Mr Chee, our wonderfully thoughtful host and plantation manager and his family to a restaurant in the SimSim the slit village I passed on my way to Berhala,  There was plenty to choose from still swimming in the tanks,  we had huge prawns, crabs, clams, squid and fish all for about the price of a fish supper at the pub.  He and his wife also took me for delicious dim sum for breakfast, so Simonne, if you are reading, you know what to look forward to

Tree Planting Trip

Tree Planting Trip

A great morning was had by 30 primary school children and staff of MOP A, B & C on a trip to plant trees in conjunction with Hutan which is a Conservation NGO dedicated to the protection of the Sukau area Kinabatanga River only 2 or 3 miles from the plantation. It works as part of the Kinabatangan Orangutan Conservation Project. Which is run by the local people of the area and provides support for sustainable local provision of tourist facilities. It was through a chance meeting with the area coordinator which led to this trip and the Hutan giving a fun and lively workshop to all the schools on the benefits of preserving the forest here as a wildlife corridor, sustainable tourism opportunities providing jobs for local people and the effect on global environmental issues.

We set off at 5.30 am in order to have the opportunity to see wild life on the boat trip down to the tree planting site, the Hutan team had prepared the site and placement of the trees and gave a briefing on the process and the benefits to the local eco system and global climate change.

Everyone planted a tree with the appropriate blessing for a successful life. The trees are grown by the local community and are indigenous varieties which will support all forms of local wildlife including birds, monkeys and orangutans. The planting area is maintained and protected from elephants for three years to allow the saplings to become established.

We then set off for ad 2-3km jungle walk where we could experience how the trees will be in 10 to 20 years time; the area is secondary forest in that it was logged up until 1982. It was the first time all of the group children, teachers and drivers had experienced this, even though they have lived here for all or most of their lives. Some of the children do not have passports and so do not leave the plantation very often. Not very different than lifetime residents of the Lake District who haven't seen the top of a mountain.

We returned to the camp site and had quite a leech count, it seems that leech socks as made and sold locally may be the answer. The students were remarkably sang froid about them, much braver than me.

Sukau River Criuse; betrayal of last years Valentine

I returned to base non too anaemic to find we had many visitors; Daniel, the Ecoteer founder and his new assistant Charmaine, along with a Danish family, friends of Tobin the Humana director. It was great to have a little euro conversation. So it was straight off for a river cruise along the Kinabatangan River which is a reserve and wildlife corridor through the plantations. It is about 10 km away from the plantation and we all boarded the school bus to get there.

I am currently working with Hutan which is part of Kintabatangan Orangutan Conservation Project, see link on the left, who are bringing an exhibition to the schools here and we hope to visit with the older students to do some conservation work with them.

The river is the second longest in Malaysia and this reserve only one of two, home to 8 different species of primates.

Yes you have guessed it we did see another Orangutan, but again not very photogenic it was busy making a nest in the tree and all we could really see was an occasional long orange arm reaching out for another branch, apparently they make up to three nests a day and we could see many along the river bank trees.

We saw macaques too, performing startling acrobatics as though trying to get a better look at us!

The area is also famed for 

its bird life variety and I managed to photograph 2 varieties of hornbill, one of which is called the rhinoceros hornbill for obvious reasons.

We were really privileged to see 5 elephants having their afternoon bath, this is how I prefer to see my elephants, during day light and the other side of a river.

But here is my new Valentine, I think we are well matched, the Proboscis Monkey. One of the things small children are fascinated with me is the size of my nose, they always want to touch it, perhaps they think I have strayed from the jungle, but at least here I have met my match.

Treemendous Tawau

Tawau is a port on the Indonesian border and it holds a festival of regional cultures each year so we decided to visit.

We arrived a little late in the afternoon but some of the stalls were still showing the various tribal costumes and handicrafts.  Here are a few pictures for the beaders, perhaps you want to incorporate some of these flowers into your next projects!

The main event was the evening procession of the wedding ceremonial regalia, music and dance.  

It was amazing to see so many tribes from all over Borneo and surrounding areas.  It was magnificent but we didn't manage to see them all as I  was growing faint from lack of food

The next day I decided to head off to the hills, Tawau Hills reserve is home to the tallest tropical tree although I couldn't see the top.

This is one for the bashers and hashers: this area is home to many hashers, and I thought I had stumbled upon a trail, perhaps they do use fungi here, still wouldn’t work in the snow though. 

I then went in search of waterfalls and hot springs, this is secondary forest, i.e. logged out and with marked trails, some even cemented and others gravelled, so pretty tame jungle I thought. It didn't take long for me to slip and slide my way and stopping to clean my feet in a stream, I remembered too late about the leeches, they were so happy to drop in for a snack. I was wearing sandals, shorts and sleeveless top so really hospitable! 
I continued and made it to the somewhat lukewarm springs and couldn't wait to get in as I assumed the little critters didn't like sulphurous fumes.  I was right and it was a beautiful spot for a picnic lunch, when I was buzzed by a particularly hungry butterfly.  






Then the rains started and I had to stumble back through the dripping foliage, always wondering when the next leech would fall. 
 I eventually made it to the waterfalls to find another four on my feet and as I had slipped into the mud so many times I stopped to wash all my clothes and make sure there were no more passengers in any hidden places. Back to the 'trail' I was using my brolly as protection against falling suckers only to have it attacked by vicious although stunningly architectural foliage, I guess the 'trails' are not designed for brolly carrying woosies.

I made it back to the gravel path when I had to stop to answer the phone, tip always keep moving in the jungle to avoid stingers and suckers. I then realised I was looking like I had survived some head hunting massacre, my shorts, top and shoes were turning red. I had to return through the park full of locals relaxing by the river, to the toilets in order to strip off yet again to wash all my clothes. I couldn't get dressed as the anti coagulant injected by the leeches meant the bleeding just continued; I managed not to pass out as I normally do in such circumstances, I had a few plasters with me and managed to stem the flow to get a taxi back to town although I didn't really stop bleeding until after I went to bed. I think I have satisfied my jungle thing now, If that was tame I don't really need anything more hard core.