Semporna

We had another three day weekend for the prophets birthday so I decided it was time to visit Semporna which apparently translates as 'perfect'.

Mr Chee our most accomodating host found me a lift almost all the way and most importantly a town with an international ATM. Howver being the first Friday of the month the queue was very long and slow moving as people use these ATM to pay utility bills, top up phones, for each member of the family as well as to get balances and of course cash, it being a holiday weekend I guess even more was needed and Mr C had already warned me to take mine at the beginning of the weekend.

I arrived in Semporna just before dark with out any bookings but went to the local backpaking budget operator Skuba Junkie. It is generally accepted that as this is the gateway to the world class diving area around Sipadan that it is rather expensive just to snorkel. But I managed to secure a good deal and cheap dorm room for the night. Even some hummous bread and beer for supper, accompanied by a local band playing an increadible range of cover versions, from the beatles to Beyonce (I think). Ready for an early start in the morning, It is about 45minutes by speedboat to the island of Mabul. From there if you have booked one of the limited permits you can go on to Sipadan for a days diving. I was happy to stay on Mabul. I was the only snorkeller in my group but still managed to see turtles who were very chilled about me swiming just above them. They are so graceful and dignified in the water, I saw both the larger green turlte and a smaller hawksbill turtle. In the afternoon we went to Stingray city, and again I was on my own snokelling but still managed to see two blue spotted stingrays, one was quite large. I was some way above them and felt much more secure about that. I also saw a metre long moray eel and a large parrot fish who didn't like my presence so close to the nest and so I moved on quite quickly.

I went for a walk around the island in the late afternoon, there is a large population of 'sea gypsies' who are stateless and so have little access to education or other provisions of state such as sewer processing and rubbish collection. They live in stilt villages around the shores, except where the resorts have taken over, and try to eak a living from working in the resorts, providing homestays and tourist trinkets of shells and sharks teeth.

The island is beautiful fringed with coconut palms and sandy beaches and apparently only takes fifty minutes to walk around. But yet again I got lost and ended up wandering around endless walkways through the endless resorts not getting anywhere, eventually I found a barman willing to show me the way, but he was on his bike and I was running to keep up with him but at least I got back in time for dinner.

After dinner there was what appeared to be a village council meeting, the subject of which was getting support from all the diving resorts to work together to put on a Marine Festival. Surprise surprise every one was sitting on their hands, 'tis the same the world over MVA! The function of the festival is to raise environmental awareness, with a rubbish clean up and other fun and frolics to ensure the sustainability of marine tourism here. Because of the statelessness of the local population then it is up to the resorts, who are providing employment and making money to protect their USP a clean, well stocked, and enviornmentally sustainable marine park for their well paying clients along with a properly educated ad trained support staff.

The company I was with, Skuba Junkie,appears to be the most proactive, supporting initiatives to provide a school of hope and alternatives to gain income apart from shark finning and over fishing of the area. It does not serve any sea food in order to support the move towards sustainable fishing practises. Some other guest did witness sharkfinning of about six shark pups that day, so please sign the petition on the link on the left to bring to the attention of the government. If I have time I hope to return to help at the school with some craft ideas for the children to make and perhaps generate some income rather than from sharks teeth and shells which are not sustainable. Also of course to enjoy the incredible variety of marine life, fish, plants and corals of amazing variety and colour.  I will try to get one of those natty little waterproof camera pouches to give more photos.